Solid as a Rock… (September 2009)

I feel sorry for so many of the tourists who turn up for an afternoon or day trip to Monaco, thinking that they’ve seen everything once having set foot on the Grand Prix track, or taken a peek at the Casino. (I feel even sorrier for the poor guys I found on a local Monaco bus a few weeks ago, riding around and around looking for the port of Nice, but let’s not go there… yes, I did tell them to get off and go catch the no. 100!) Whilst these landmarks are exciting, so much is being missed…Monaco may be small, but it isn’t short of places to go and things to do..

Take ‘ Le Rocher’ (The Rock) home to Monaco-Ville, the principality’s old town which is perched on the top of sheer cliffs next to the Prince’s Palace. I remember all too well on my first trip here many years ago as a tourist, wondering what was up there as I peered up from the port, but never setting foot there at all. When I finally did, I started to realise how I had missed out.

The rock is a world in miniature in an already tiny country. Apart from the attractive ‘gingerbread’ streets in the old town, where (especially at night) one feels like one has slipped onto the set of a medieval film, the rock is home to a school, a crèche, a library (the Princess Grace Irish library to be correct) a post office, shops, cafes & restaurants, a radio station, a jail and even a nunnery! All of this fits into a headland that is only around 600 meters long.

Stunning gardens overlook the both ports, the Prince’s Palace and the Oceanographic museum fascinate (more about those later in another article), and during the summer months, the rock becomes one of my absolute favourite places to visit, as it is home to the Monaco Open Air Cinema. Ah yes… boasting Europe’s largest outdoor screen, all of the latest blockbusters are shown here from June to September, and in what style. Let’s face it, in how many places can you lie back on a sun lounger and watch films in English on a giant screen, under the stars on a warm balmy night, whilst sipping a gin & tonic?

Otherwise, even if you aren’t lucky enough to be there on a summer night, the gardens alone on the rock shouldn’t be missed. Beginning at the top of the long road taken to drive up to the rock (which is a lovely walk, less steep than the stairs direct to the palace, with marvellous views over the port) the gardens stretch all the way around to the seaward end or the rock, then along the Fontvieille side on the cliff tops… there are a wealth of places hidden away to discover, a hidden fort and mini amphitheatre, pools, pathways, sumptuous plants, rare trees, and – no exaggeration here – mind-blowing views across the Mediterranean. Taking a walk from here all through St Martin’s gardens up to the palace is beautiful. If you don’t fancy the walks up and down to the rock, buses No 1 and 2 run up to the top, (just be warned that they don’t run late into the night..) Another great time of year to visit is when the Christmas lights go on in December.. But I won’t ruin the surprise..Needless to say, the gingerbread town becomes something even more magical..